Set sail from Ushuaia, Argentinean Patagonia, about 8pm on New Years Eve. Felt really excited, but still couldn't believe that this was actually happening! Something I'd talked about doing for 3 or 4 years was finally here! The expedition leader, Brendan, told us we were very lucky, as the Drake Passage, the huge expanse of ocean between us and Antarctica, was going to be the 'Drake Lake' - a rare occurrence in one of most notoriously rough ocean crossings in the world. To be brief, it was as flat as a tack, and spectacular the whole way. The first two photos below show how beautiful it was. I reckon the first pic could have been taken in the Bahamas or Greek islands, but no, this was taken on New Years Day, 2010. What a breathtaking and invigorating start to the new decade!
These windless and flat conditions made it great for whale spotting, but bad for bird spotting as the huge sea birds didn't have enough 'up draft' to cruise too well behind the ship. Nevertheless, we did see various types of albatross, petrels and other 'tweeties' (that don't really go tweet!!), and the ornithologist (Michael) on board kept us informed of the bird action. We also had a marine biologist on board(Jim), who educated us on how to identify whale species by the shape and height of their blows, the way they would surface and dive, the shape and size of their fins and general behaviour! Mostly we saw Minke whales and Fin whales during the crossing, and the Jim, kept a tally the whole way through the voyage. All the Expedition Leaders doubled up as knowledgeable about something, and the two day crossing was a great way to pass time listening to their lectures about the ice, the environment, the human activity and explorers and the wildlife, as well as find your sea legs and get to know the other passengers.
Our ship, the Ocean Nova, could take about 73 passengers, and we had about 68 on board. Many of the Expedition leaders said the Ocean Nova was one of their favourites as it wasn't too big, had a shallow hull (both these features meant it can get into smaller areas that bigger ships can't) and had a really good communal area - the Panorama lounge, with windows all around access to the decks, a bar and good equipment etc for presentations/slide shows.
OK, so it's NYE, and the Expedition leaders put a mammoth effort into getting a bunch of people who didn't know each other, and half of whom were seriously jet lagged, into some semblance of 'party mode'. We were given complimentary 'welcome champers' and introduced to the majestic figure of our Captain - 'Mad Alexi' from Russia! Known as such for his willingness to 'see what the ship can really do'! All our expedition leaders were introduced, as well as some of the fabulous Phillipeano/a crew (who were brilliant I must say - they did everything! Cooked our meals, served our tables, cleaned our rooms, launched our zodiacs, played music and sang,wore silly hats (and togas, but that's another story) and were always smiling - really made for an excellent trip!). One of the expedition leaders said that it's the crew that make all the difference, as when he's worked with Russian crews, there's not a lot of smiling going on! To cut a long story short, the expedition leaders and the crew complemented each other perfectly, and there was a feeling of total professionalism but casualness for the whole trip. We then played some games, then most people flaked out just after welcoming in the New Year, and new decade! Just quickly, before I move on, we had a wide range of nationalities on board - most of the expedition leaders were Canadian, and passengers, again, a lot ofCanadians, and some Americans, Brazilians, Brits, Aussies, Japanese, and Italians, one Israeli, one Sri Lankan, one Dane, one Irishwoman, but strangely, no Kiwis....so, a mixed bunch. Lots of people there to celebrate a 'big birthday' - 40ths (me included), 50ths and 60ths. A couple of people were on their second or third trip to the Frozen Continent, and we were lucky enough to have a professional wildlife and nature photographer on board (a passenger), who was a great bloke and really generous with the other passengerswith sharing tips and showing us some of his work - unreal. Must say, there was some serious photography equipment on board, from many of the passengers. You can't really go wrong down there though for quality material and subject matter.
How I natter eh? Ok, moving on, even with these incredibly calm conditions, it was still about a 36 hour crossing before we saw land. The next 4 photos are of the South Shetland Islands - part of an Antarctic archaepelego (please don't expect me to be able to spell that - I can't even say it right!! You know, string of islands...!)
We'd seen our first iceberg way before the land sighting, and boy was I excited!! It's funny now, cos I took stacks of pictures of icebergs way in the distance in the early sightings, and when I look back at the photos of what was to come, they were pretty poxy! I'm looking forward to the missive about the icebergs - they'll blow you away!! My highlight for sure! I've digressed again.... the last photo here was at about 8.45 pm, 2nd of jan, not long before we did our first landing...on Desolation Island, Latitude 60 degrees 55'S, and Longitude 60 degrees 21'W. We'd made it unscathed, with sensory overload to come...
Next instalment soon!
Lib
by the way, none of my photos have been edited/photoshop-ed/altered in any way - this is how it looked folks.
Well done LIbby! I KNEW you are internet friendly! Am looking forward to reading your blog =D
ReplyDeleteGreat photos. Very envious and want to go see for myself!
ReplyDeleteJill
Thanks for your comments - it's good to know there are actually people out there who I know, and it's not just all cyber clap trap! Jill, I can highly recommend getting there yourself - it's a phenomenal place. If you've got flexibility of time, you can actually hang out in Ushuaia for up to a week, and get a berth for about USD 3000 - a fraction of what I paid. food for thought!
ReplyDeleteL
Thanks for the tip Libby, but sadly won't be able to 'hang' next trip - problems is as per usual the lack of cash! Euro sick - pension paid in Euros - plus of living here has rocketed.
ReplyDeleteNot as young as we used to be, have to remember Derek is 76 in a few days. Look at young Eliot and one reaslises how the years have flown!
J.
how funny, i can so see u saying bloggerooni! ah such an adventure
ReplyDeleteEmil
Your closing Chapter was fantastic to read. Can't believe you actually did the dunk in the water - must be mad! But can understand why you had to do it.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing your experiences with us, feel almost as tho' we have been there too.
Love, Jx.
Thanks Jill. It truely was one of the most incredible experiences of my life so far! Hope you keep reading my posts as they go up. And thanks for your comments!
ReplyDeleteLibby,
ReplyDeletePosted something here before, but didn't post, came back again.
Very well written - brilliant post, I really should've gotten onto your missive list when you were sending them.
Cheers
Andrew